Kitchenaid oven wont turn on. If the bake element doesn’t have continuity, replace it. If your gas oven won’t ignite, check to make sure the igniter is glowing a bright orange.
If you can see that the igniter is glowing but doesn’t ignite the flame, it’s likely that the igniter has been weakened and thus needs to be replaced from time to time or at least cleaned thoroughly with a wire brush.
Below are some other common issues involved in most cases of an oven not turning on for heating up.
Kitchenaid oven won’t turn on
Bake. A bake is an oven function that cooks food by dry heat for a long time at a relatively low temperature.
Bake heats food internally, normally just below its boiling point at water’s surface of 212 degrees Fahrenheit.
That makes it different as a cooking method from other methods like grilling or frying because they use much higher temperatures and rely on moisture being released from the food to prevent scorching.
The bake element does not have continuity
When the bake element is heating properly, it glows red hot. If the element does not glow red, this indicates that the element is not heating.
Often, if the heating element has burned out, it will be visibly damaged. Inspect for visible damage and holes in the circuitry leading to the electrical heating elements before replacing them.
Use a multimeter to determine whether or not any of your bake elements have continuity as well as whether or not there are any other issues with them (make sure you test both sides of your bake elements!).
If they don’t seem to be working correctly and they aren’t visibly damaged then replace these components with new ones altogether.
The igniter is one of the most commonly broken pieces of a gas oven.
If your gas oven won’t turn on, chances are it has to do with the igniter. There are several things the igniter does.
First, the igniter draws in electricity through the safety valve which then opens up for any other parts that might need it to function as well.
Second, the igniter gets hot enough to ignite your burner so that you’re able to use it properly. If your igniter is weak or simply not working anymore.
You’ll need to check if it’s receiving electricity by using a multimeter (a small tool used for testing continuity) and see if there’s any connection between your oven’s safety valve and its igniter before actually buying a new one.
As long as you have all of these parts connected, there shouldn’t be an issue with why your oven won’t turn on.
The thermal fuse has blown
If the oven ever overheats, it will turn itself off until it has cooled down. If that happens and the oven does not turn on,
there is a high chance that the thermal fuse has blown which will not allow electrical current to flow through to the bake element.
To troubleshoot this issue, use a multimeter to test for basic electrical operation by placing your negative lead onto the connector tab of a known good thermal fuse.
Place your positive lead onto both terminals in turn. If you suspect you have an open fuse, if there is no continuity between any of these points, then you can be sure that one or more of these fuses may need to be replaced.
Faulty Safety Valve
The gas safety valve on an oven allows gas to get from the oven’s gas line to its burner.
If the safety valve fails, the oven won’t heat up. However, this is rarely the cause when your oven stops working.
Before replacing the safety valve, first test all the more commonly defective components of an oven such as its igniter.
If all these other components are working properly – especially if there is still a red glow coming from your igniter.
Use a multimeter to test for continuity on your safety valve. This can tell you whether it is actually faulty and needs replacing or not!
Broil element does not have continuity
When the broil element is heating it will glow red hot. If the element does not glow red, this indicates that it has not reached temperature and may not be heating.
However, if the element is glowing extremely bright red, then there may be a problem with this electrical connection and you should contact an electrician.
It is also possible that the broil element has departed beyond its expected life and should be replaced as soon as possible to avoid damaging other components in your oven such as the motherboard or control panel.
To test the continuity of the broil assembly remove one lead from a multimeter set on ohms and touch both ends of each wire while watching the readout on your meter.
Once you see two numbers solid (instead of flashing) Congratulations! The broil assembly still works properly and you can return it to working condition by replacing any burnt-out parts.
Relay board Fault
Some ovens are equipped with a relay board. The relay board is a circuit board that has several relays that safeguard the amount of voltage going to your heating element by controlling this electric current to make sure it doesn’t overload or burn out.
Note: all-electric current can be found in all kitchen appliances. When one of these contacts fails, your oven will stop working properly, but that’s very rare.
Before you replace the relay board on the control panel, first check through all of the heating elements in your device and if any are not conducting correctly it may cause heat failure.
IF you do find faults with any (or more) of your components then replace them before considering new relay boards depending on the brand as it could just mean one bad chip.
An issue Oven Control Board
The oven’s various heating components send voltage to the board if it is properly installed. If the board is not set up correctly, it won’t send voltage to all the various heating components.
Yet most of the time, this is simply because one of your heatings has failed and in this case, you must test each heating component and if they are functioning properly you should replace the faulty heating component and then test again.
This can be a very different repair job though so make sure you’re knowledgeable about your appliances prior to attempting any repairs yourself.
Problem Valve and Pressure Regulator
Before replacing any components and taking any drastic measures, check all the other components in the troubleshooting guide.
The valve and pressure regulator may be at fault as a result of this misdiagnosis problem but it is usually not the case.